Muss & Turners NYE

End 2007 on a good food note - that's the plan. We went to Muss & Turner's in Smyrna. Casual, friendly, and run by folks who know good food. We took pics of not only our plates, but Scott and Annita's too. We're rude, I know, I know.

Heck, I'm just happy they had Green's GF beer! Woot!!

Prix fix:

• Amuse buche


• Hamachi crudo -or- fruits de mer


• Salad of endive, arugula, fourme d'amert, pine nuts and sherry vinaigrette -or- puree of celery root soup with truffle walnut compote


• Kamado grilled veal chop with brown butter roasted winter squash and lacinato kale -or- herb seared wild king salmon with lemon roasted potatoes, horseradish beurre blanc


• Boston cream pie -or- meyer lemon explosion

Wines of note: Chateau de Valmer Vouvray (sparkling), Girardet 'Grand Rouge' Umpqua Valley, Oregon (2004) - Annita's favorite. The boys enjoyed de Doelle Stille Nacht (12%) and Ommegang Rare Vos on draft.

Christmas critter delivery!

We were simply drinking some wine and beer and playing Katamari on PS2 when Pepper started flipping out by the front door.

"Honey, we have a visitor!" We surmise our little friend here came waltzing up to the front porch, only to be spooked by 23 pounds of barking furry mess behind a glass door and he simply ran as high as he could get - which just happened to be the front porch column. Was he attracted to our lightening display? Or smells of aged Gouda on the counter? Who knows.

We closed the door, thinking this would encourage him to get down. And it did. And we recorded a bit on video on his careful navigation down. [Those squeaky noises are Pepper.]

And no, we didn't hear a 'thud' at all. He had quite the poise. We saw him afterwards retreating to our backyard and up into the woods.

Merry Christmas, Mr. Raccoon!

Foie gras at Bouchon

Last meal here in the city and its only fitting to end on a high note. There is no human alive who can finish the entire jar. It is so unbelievably rich, it literally turns liquid the longer it sits in a warm environment. This is probably the best appetizer (if you want to call it that) in many years. You just wanted to take the jar of half-eaten foie away with you when you leave. But I don't think the folks next to us on the flight to Atlanta would appreciate me pulling this out of my carryon bag.

Columbus Circle

The view looking down. What is especially remarkable about this is these stars, huge, suspended, and turning a myriad of shades from red to yellow to blue to purple. They really are spectacular.

Central Park

After breakfast, we decided to walk off our blue plate special of corned beef hash and eggs from Apple Jack Diner on 55th & Broadway. Cholesterol anyone?? Well, it was one time. And I have been craving some hash like you wouldn't believe. I only eat it in NYC, getting down here in Atlanta is just not going to happen. Their hash was awesome, where there was no definitive line between where the crispy pieces of corned beef end and where the soft potatoes begin. It's all just a big mush of piping hot goodness.

The best hot chocolate

At MarieBelle, Upper East. It's quite chilly as we walk thirty blocks down Madison Avenue. We find this little jewel. Hidden on the second story, it is a warm welcoming cafe more akin to Paris. They are known for their hot cocoa, and we do not hesitate to plunk down $12 each for a thick cup. It's a 70% cocoa of single origin made to european standard. Good thing a spoon was given....it's just that thick.

Brine-y Things

Dave took us to this awesome Belarus market in Brighton Beach. I'm holding their best product: pickled watermelon, tomatoes, apples, and half-sours. (You can see Dave is holding the critical watermelon piece by the tongs). Before we arrived, Dave warned us: the Russian ladies put up with no English and no funny business. Keep your head down and your comments to yourself, and you'll be okay. Eric had to take this picture in total secrecy. The store was remarkable: nothing in English. No products. No language. I was surprised we didn't pay in rubles.

Faicco's

Dave took us to this great place. Italian. Smack-dab in the middle of Brooklyn. And it was packed full of locals, all patiently waiting for their number to be called.

This was by far the best, freshest mozzarella one would ever hope to eat. Water oozes out of its pores when cut, and its got a fresh spring to it, slight tang, with a thick skin.

We got a couple ounces of cured meats and roast beef to go. Yum!

Yonah's on LES

Knishes anyone? God, we had been meaning to hit this place the last couple of trips to New York. And finally - whooot!! It was worth the wait!! Dave said the sweet knish was really worth trying - made with farmers cheese. Baked fruit (or berries) are delicately baked in, but only enhance the knish, not take it over. The acid is a nice balance to all that filling. Think of a cheese blintz....on steriods.

Rock Center Tree

Crowded...but beautiful!

The crowds were massive down 5th Avenue, but we felt it appropriate that we are in New York for Christmastime, it is only appropriate. The LED lights really sparkled under the clear night - something this picture does not capture. The tree is a bit smaller than I thought it would be. I think I pass similar-sized evergreens on the way to work every morning. But where do you see such spirit sandwiched between massive skyscrapers?

Gordon Ramsey

We were excited just to be able to get in for reservations at Gordon Ramsey's Dining Room at the London. Michelin stars are nothing to scoff at, so we were expecting some serious food. And serious service to back this up.

I ordered the scallops, which if you notice closely, appear to have been 2 scallops - not 4 - cut in half. That's a big pet peeve of mine. I like my scallops huge, juicy, tender, and slightly seared. These were so thin, that they were very easily overcooked. The presentation was very good and the crispy rice was a nice crunchy complement to the mild scallops.


Eric ordered the foie gras, served warm over sauteed slices of sweet plum. This was an amazing combination and I was beginning to doubt my appetizer choice for sure.

Eric ordered the filet and short rib for dinner. Both were cooked fabulous and tender. But the complaint being the meat was not easily cut with the dull standard knife provided. A steak knife... anyone?....

Squab...can you believe it? It was truly amazing meat. Had I been blindfolded, I'd swear it was a rich pork loin. The gamey taste was complemented well with golden raisins and pieces of foie gras tucked into little crevices between the boneless pieces.

Unfortunately, the cuisine couldn't overcome the missed timing with service. My wine service began shotty, but the head sommelier gave some relief by the time of the entrees. And refills on table water were rare. The cheese cart had been sitting by us the entire night, so we were anxious to arrive at that course and choose from 30 or so offerings. Problem is, the gentlemen in charge of serving the cheese didn't know a whole lot about them. I'm not an expert by any stretch of the imagination on cheese, but he really didn't know these. Or what to pair with my pinot noir. And lastly, he didn't change knives between cuts. Meaning, my goat cheese was overwhelmed by bits of Eric's stinky cheese choices.

Am I being too picky? Perhaps. But I expected first class service. And we almost got it, but not quite.

Lemon Macaroon

Awww yea

Here it all is. In all its goodness. An aged raw milk. Ascutney Mountain from Cobb Hill Farm in Vermont.

Essex market

We came here first thing upon arriving in New York. Lower East Side. We heard a lot about it, and its cheesemonger - Saxelby. Supposedly the best in the city and we just had to check it out.

Pepper

Sweet boy

So we got these new cell phones...Sony Ericsson's K800i.... and were spending an extraordinary amount of time fooling around with them. The best feature? Being able to take high-res pics and post immediately to the blog. No computer!! This comes in handy for next weekend's trip to NYC and our Famous Dave tour.

Pepper was simply a willing participant in this morning's 'test' photos.

Happy Thanksgiving

It's taken us years to pare-down our Thanksgiving meal to include really the foods that matter to us most. A decade ago, we would much rather prefer quantity over quality. The largest ham. The largest turkey. Large marshmallows ontop of larger yams. Each year, we continue to narrow down our offerings to what matters most.

For me, its the brussel sprouts. Small tender guys that pick up a hint of smoke as they roast with applewood smoked bacon. This truly is the first unofficial brussel holiday for me. My first taste of the season to come. Gosh, I love these guys. Seriously, it is an addiction.

For Eric, its the fresh potato chips, a splash of sea salt. Not only do these crispy creatures provide a much needed fingerfood snack while we wait for the turkey, they also serve the purpose of seasoning the oil.

For Pepper, its the turkey. And he's on the right track because this year we fixed two, one with an apple cider brine and one with the our favorite injectable, Creole Butter. The turkeys were pastured, free range, organic from C & W out of Douglas, GA. Pep was fixated on our comings and goings from the house to the fryer and back inside. In. Out. In. Out.

Chang brought over a gluten free (yipee!) spoon cornbread, which was awesome, and we paired that with a wild rice pilaf. Add some cranberry sauce, and you got a full plate. If you weren't already full of the food, and wine, and beer, well then there was a warm GF apple crisp to finish your night off.

We hope you all had a wonderful holiday, with a yummy meal surrounded by folks you love.

The heartbreaking end of harvest

We said our last goodbyes to Mary Anne and Freehome Gardens. It will be a hard Wednesday habit to break. Every week, we were so excited of the bounty given to us. The colors, the freshness, the taste of these vegetables were just uncomparable. Each Wednesday, I'd call Eric on the way from Mary Anne's, with giddy excitement, explaining all that we were about to prepare for the week. What was new; what was the last of the offerings; what was to be enjoyed immediately that night. Quite literally, I couldn't even contain my enthusiasm for a twenty minute car ride home, hence the necessity of the call to home.

We should have known the 'end' was coming. North Georgia just received two back-to-back nights of subfreezing temperatures. Mary Anne explained that some veg will survive a one night freeze, but two nights simply knocked out those tender vines.

As I walked through the fields, you capture the sense of loss, the grieving that Mary Anne speaks of. To tend to your land all year, keeping vigil during the heat wave, and nuturing these plants through the current drought, its all gone within a matter of forty-eight hours. As disappointed and hurt as Mary Anne is, and frankly, if you love her veg as much as we do, your heart aches just as equally. However, it is remarkable the land takes advantage of the winter to heal itself and prepare for spring's bounty. The barren rows will soon yield a new crop of greens come Spring. It is a bittersweet goodbye, this Saturday afternoon, however we've certainly ended the season on a high note. Lovely green tomatoes, rattlesnake green beans, peppers, green onions, collards, and yes, to my excitement, the last of the sweet potatoes.

We fully warned Mary Anne to watch out for a black Toyota Paseo slowly cruising down Trinity Church Road in the next sixteen weeks. It's habit, afterall. Or maybe an excuse.... to see Harold and her tending to the earth... or planting.... or even to catch a glimpse of an emerging seedling. That little (green) ray of hope, that Spring will soon be here, to yield a whole new set of crops.

Thank you to Mary Anne and Harold, the best 'parents' any vegetable could ask for.

35 years... and the perfect scallop

We celebrated my entry into the mid thirties with a wonderful dinner at Muss & Turner's. Actually, the draw to M & T wasn't only just for the menu, which is amazing by the way, but for their wine tasting classes. They conduct them every Tuesday. And it just happened to fall on 13th this go round.


Since returning from Germany, I've been on somewhat of a quest to find a couple of good dependable German whites, not the sickly sweet Reisling's of my college years, but offerings with a note of dry, that goes with just about anything spicy, or a crisp salad, or a curried dish. And I like acid. Lots of acid. You finish your taste with a pucker - that's what I'm talking about. So, when M & T offered the German and Austrian class, on the 13th nonetheless, it was simply a calling that I had to fulfill.


The three wines worth noting are:

- Kracher Pinot Gris '05 (Austria), 100% stainless steel and organically harvested under the schedule of the moon (biodynamically). It was crisp, clean, light. Perfect for a salad partner.

- Josef Leitz's "Dragonstone" Reisling '06 (Germany), A bit sweeter than the Kracher, but being from the Rheingau region, my tongue is still trampled with acidity. Oh, this is a keeper folks.

- Schloss Gobelsburg Reisling '05 (Austria), A bit more color and complexity than Dragonstone. Definitely not your typical Reisling.


Moving onto dinner, with white wine having awashed my entire tongue for two hours, it was a simple decision for their scallops and fresh goat cheese salad. Their scallops are massive and seared ever so slightly, resulting in a wonderful touch of sweet. Paired with fennell and mixed olive salad. They truly are three jems from the sea.



Muss & Turners: its worth the drive

7th Annual "Afternoon in the Country"

Today, we went down to Serenbe, for the benefit food/wine/beer festival presented by Les Dames d'Escoffier International.

If you don't know, or haven't gone, Serenbe is a 900 acre live/work/play community about 30 miles south of Atlanta. It is devoted to environmental responsibility. Serenbe itself has 20 acres for its own organic farming; the produce then distributed to its residents and restaurants. Rather than a traditional sewer system, they installed a biological wastewater treatment system. Storm runoff is directed into vegetated filter strips. It's a great example of new urbanism, and residents contributing to conservation and sustainability. So, if we won the lottery, we'd move here. Click here to check out Serenbe.

Anyway, to get back on topic, they host a yearly festival in support of Les Dames d'Escoffier and Georgia Organics. Tickets are pricey, and we had some reservations about spending the money. (But after a hard-earned yard sale weekend, with cash in hand, our walls came down).

For 3 hours, you sample the absolute best dishes from Atlanta's top chefs, as well as a great selection of complementing wines and craft beers.

There is a silent auction of a vast array of items - anything from 1/2 a Berkshire Pig from Riverview Farms to framed art to gift certificates for restaurants to being a cheese monger for-a-day at Sweet Grass Diary. Now, after a couple glasses of wine and beer, you are much more apt to waddle over to the auction boards and put your bid in.

Oh, and there's a cake raffle too. Not just any church-bake-sale cake, we are talking serious perfection here folks. Tall 14 layer cakes, decorated with fresh orchids and shaved chocolates.

Five dollars - and a prayer to the Diety of Dessert - is all it takes to be a potential winner.

We had the pleasure of meeting so many folks behind these great restaurants. It is really unbelievable that the chefs themselves, as famous as they are, come down for this day, completed devoted to their craft and to this organization and festival. One we were shocked to meet: Kevin Rathbun. Genuinely nice guy, obliged to fulfill our foodie desires for a short chat and a picture. And his pastured Asian chicken noodle salad? Like an explosion of textures and spices. Fresh herbs and greens to cool your tongue between bites of spicy tender chicken, all packaged in small Chinese boxes. This man is down to the details, and it clearly shows.

There were more than 60 restaurants and artisan producers/growers to sample. Weaving through the crowd, with wine (or beer for Eric) in hand, we stop at each linen-covered table, and hear the each Chef explain the nuances of their particular dish. Here's a sampling of what we discovered....

• Pork belly sliders from JCT Kitchen
• Butternut squash soup with crispy bacon and chanterelles from Trois
• Sweet potato panna cotta from Woodfire (my favorite!)
• African squash pudding with fall fruit compote from Taurus
• Georgia vegetable gumbo and crispy pork belly from Farm 255
• Suvee duck breast with cinnamon sweet potato souffle from 103 West
• Mini-meatball sandwich from Restaurant Eugene
• Braised short rib with chocolate vinegar on sauteed cabbage from Canoe
• Ham and cheese tortellini from Via Elisa
• Lamb meatball on cheese spaetzel from Five Seasons
• Smoked salmon and capers on homemade corn chip from One Midtown Kitchen
• BBQ chicken deviled egg from The Feed Store
• Lamb fennel sausage on fennel apple slaw from Food Studio
• Beef carpaccio from Strip
• Artisan cheeses from Sweet Grass Diary
• Whole leg of lamp on fresh collards, corn muffin from Farmhouse at Serenbe
• Beers of Munich and Dunkel from Five Seasons -- they even tapped a giant pumpkin, and poured their pumpkin brew through it to enhance its pumpkin-ness.

It's really all overwhelming... the tastes... the textures.... the flavors. You are definitely spinning into a downward food coma by late afternoon.

We are so glad we got this opportunity. And as we waddled back to the car, we discussed our favorites, our surprises, the humble manner and genuine nature of the chefs we met and their dedication to their craft.

And lastly, we had to include a picture of Biscuit, a furry faced foodie, who was probably hoping for any leftover pork belly from a passersby.

Georgia vineyards

We did something this weekend, long overdue, that's been on our 'list' for quite some time. Visiting the wineries up in north Georgia country. Believe it or not, there are a lot. A whole lot. So, we wanted to make sure this, our first time, we hit a couple of the bigger ones. Big, not in Napa standards, just in Georgia foothills standards.

Amy, Eric, and I headed off to Dahlonega in Lumpkin County, which as it turns out is on the "Georgia Wine Highway". Prior to this weekend, when I think of Dahlonega, its usually for its quaint town square, the southern vittles at Smith House, the Appalachian foothills, and, of course, the touristy 'Pan for gold here' signs along the curvy, one-lane roads.

Our first visit was to Frogtown Winery. Their $12 tasting menu was well worth it to explore either the 10 white offerings or 10 red offerings. They also offer a light lunch menu of paninis, salads, or a soup. These nibbles are not necessary as the tasting pours didn't amount to more than a half-ounce. A couple of sips, and you are ready for the next one. Your views from the outdoor tasting deck is nothing but wonderful rolling hills. And now being in Fall, they are dotted beautifully with amber and orange brush strokes. The free-roaming vineyard dogs, ranging from retrievers to hounds, keep a more diligent watch on your half-eaten ham and Gruyere sandwich than any overly curious human intruders venturing into the vineyards. We determined our favorites to be: Vineaux Blanc, Viognier, Touche, and Sangiovese.

We rode down the gravel rock road to Three Sisters Winery. We knew it was a bad sign when we saw the large tour bus parked beside their tasting room. It was too chaotic and challenging to squeeze through all the blue-hairs and try to grab three spots at the wine bar, so instead we poked around at their bottle offerings, and picked up a couple of red blends, purely based on wacky labeling gimmicks. What can I say? I'm a sucker for a NV blend simply labeled as Old Face Jug. Oh, and they do have a great selection of Sweet Grass Diary cheeses. You really could do a one-stop-shop for any spur of the moment mountain picnic here at Three Sisters.

Are the wineries comparable to California? Probably not. But they are much better than you would expect.

So, c'mon. Grab your palate. Drive an hour north. You won't be disappointed.

There's a good chance you will end up finding at least one local jem in 'dem 'dar hills - and its not gold.

Links:

Frogtown Winery

Three Sisters Winery

Map of Wineries of Lumpkin County

Fox Brothers Bar-B-Q

Good 'cue can be a religious experience. You will travel far and wide to find the perfect 'altar' of smoke, meat, sauce, and spice. You pray the experience is what you've read about. Or maybe heard from your friends. And, especially down here in the South, the hype is taken pretty seriously. Although not born or raised in the South, it is my hope that in the past 12 years, I've been able to sniff out a genuine 'cue restaurant from a half-butt attempt at an overly-sauced slab of meat on a plate. So far, we consider Swallow in The Hollow in Roswell to be at the top of our list.

So, while Eric & friends were at Decatur's Beer Festival, Mary and I took in a great little hidden gem - Fox Bros. BBQ.

Story is that these guys used to cook up 'cue for Smith's Olde Bar, however, I can't recall a concert that Eric and I went to at Smith's and had a hankerin' to order a messy order of ribs. Maybe that's why the Fox brothers finally opened up their own joint near L5P.

We sat outside, under the shadow of the large smoker, to peruse the offerings. The menu consists of pulled pork, beef ribs, brisket, and half-chicken, each prepared and smoked dry, just spices. Sides include onion rings, veggies, cole slaw, tater tots, and the like.

I decided on the pulled pork plate, with 2 sides consisting of green beans and collards. The pulled pork offered just wonderful, crispy, tasty bits. Bits with just the right smoky char, that crunch, paired with their tender, moist cousins. One piece, with a crunch. The next melts in your mouth. Add a dollop of their tangy signature sauce (or more) to bring out the dry rub. I favored the collards over the beans. They were simple, wilted, a touch of smoke and(surprisingly) without bacon chunks.

Mary decided on the rib sandwich, with onion rings. She said these rings are some of the best she's ever had.

My only complaint: a stronger iced tea. Because if you are truly in 'cue heaven, the iced tea should be fresh and carry a bit of tannic black-tea bite to cut through the fats. But who cares with meat like this?

So, go. Take it all in. Pray at the altar of smoked meat. You won't forget the experience.
http://www.foxbrosbbq.com/